Useful Tips

Jacquard Tie


A tie with an elastic band is a very convenient accessory. He gives the little gentleman an elegant, solemn look and saves his mother’s time: he does not need to be tied. In addition, an older boy can put on such a tie completely independently.

Sometimes a tie is needed as part of a carnival or theatrical costume. It is such a tie - bright, from fabric to flower - that we will sew in this master class.

Materials and tools:

  • the cloth
  • non-woven
  • elastic
  • threads
  • scissors
  • sewing machine
We will build and cut out a pattern from paper. According to the proposed sizes, you can sew a tie 25.5 cm long and 7 cm wide. Of course, the sizes can be varied as necessary!

We cut out two parts (except the rectangular one) from the main fabric and non-woven with 1 cm allowance, and cut the rectangular part without allowance.

The main part of the tie and the “corner” are put together with the front sides and sewn on a typewriter.

We cut the corners, twist and iron.

The resulting part is folded along and stitched.

Turn out, straighten and iron.

Now is the time to start creating the site. The rectangular part is folded along and stitched into a tube.
Turn and iron so that the seam is in the middle of one of the sides.

Fold the strip as in the photo, and cut off the line.

We catch the elastic with a few stitches and put all the parts together as shown in the photo.

Tie: choose fabric and size

If you choose a fabric with a non-repeating original pattern, try to arrange the pattern so that the most interesting fragment falls on the main part and a wide angle.

The main secret - you need to cut the tie obliquely. This is not as economical as a direct layout, but it is this method that allows you to achieve the correct "behavior" of the tie when tying. In order to slightly reduce fabric consumption, a tie is divided into two or three parts. The length of the longest, main part to the very corner plus an allowance of 2 cm is the length of the required cut of square-shaped fabric. If you have a tie of suitable length, measure the lengths of the parts into which it is divided.

You can make the width of the tie any. In the section devoted to the construction of the pattern, we will give approximate sizes for different models.

You will also need a non-woven fabric to keep the tie in good shape. The back of the tie has two “open” triangles, which are usually made of lining silk in a suitable color. You will need a very small piece - one triangle for the wide end and one triangle for the narrow one, with an allowance of 1 cm in the corners.

So, let's sew a jacquard tie!

Building patterns and cutting

Decide on the size and model.

The classic wide men's tie has a total length of 150 cm from corner to corner. The maximum width at the bottom is 11 cm; the width of the upper triangle is 4 cm.

The narrow tie in the lower part has a width of 4-6 cm, and the width of the upper triangle is 3-3.5 cm.

Most often, a tie is divided into three parts. The length of part A is usually 76-90 cm. The length of part B is 15-25 cm, the rest of C. Children's, teenage and women's ties are shorter, on average up to 140 cm.

If you don’t have a tie that you can navigate around, cut a strip of cloth about 150 cm and tie it like a tie. Tighten so that the bottom corner is just below the waistline or as you like. The narrow end should be shorter than the wide. Mark the ends and mark the points near the knot so that the future seam does not fall into a prominent place. Remove the fabric and measure the resulting total length.

Both wide and low angles are straight.

After you draw the main details, double them by adding half the width on each side. Design the joints by continuing the line, as shown in the diagram.

Cut parts by placing them in an oblique line, as shown in the diagram. Leave an additional allowance of 1 cm on each side.

Cut out the details from the non-woven fabric, without doubling it and without additional allowances. From the lining fabric, make a copy of the lower and upper triangles using the finished pattern, and add a 1 cm allowance along the oblique sides.

How to sew a tie

It works on the principle of a wiki, which means that many of our articles are written by several authors. When creating this article, 26 people (a) worked on its editing and improvement, including anonymously.

The number of sources used in this article is 15. You will find a list of them at the bottom of the page.

Ties are gaining popularity as a fashion accessory that can be worn not only with an office suit. And given the growing interest in making things with your own hands, it is not surprising that many people sew unique ties on their own. A tie can be sewn from almost any fabric, choosing any color, pattern and length, and the price will be significantly lower than that of a purchased tie. Regardless of whether you sew a tie for yourself or prepare an original gift for your father for the New Year or Defender of the Fatherland Day, use our simple instructions.

Working process

  • three tie details
  • two lining triangles
  • three details from nonwoven
  • threads and scissors

Fasten the details of the tie with non-woven fabric. Fold them face in and chop or sweep. Expand and check if the sides are in a straight line. Sew, iron the allowances, and cut off the protruding corners.

Iron the allowances for the triangles of the lining fabric and the corners of the main part to the wrong side: first iron the corner up, then the sides.

Fold the wrong side of the lining triangle and the corresponding end of the main part and sew it carefully by hand.

Iron 1 cm inward over the entire length of the tie. Fold the tie in half to the middle and chip or iron. Sew the tie along the entire length by hand, threading both ends. Iron.

You will need

  • Silk fabric 90 x 90 cm (enough for two ties - one standard size, see above, and the second - narrower)
  • Woolen fabric with a length of 80 cm (the width will depend on whether you will reinforce the tie in 1 or 2 layers: to strengthen the tie, you can take the usual paid plain plain wool fabric, but the ideal option is 100% combed wool, elastic and dense)
  • Template for cutting according to the shape of the front side of a tie made of thick cardboard or thick film (for manufacturing, see step 2)
  • Sharp scissors (buy at Burda store) or roller cutter (buy at Burda store)
  • Litter for cutting
  • Silk pins (buy at Burda store)
  • Ruler (buy at Burda)
  • Pencil
  • Marker (buy at Burda store)
  • Needle and thread for sewing
  • Centimeter tape (buy at Burda)

Step 1: prepare tools and materials

Prepare everything you need in advance for cutting and sewing so that everything is at your fingertips. Determine the length of the tie with a cord, which then attach to the tape measure. When calculating the length of a tie, consider the additional allowance for tying the knot. Choose the width and shape of the tie.

Attention: the width of the template should be 3 times the width of the finished tie, since you will fold the long sides of the tie three times in the direction towards the middle. Plus add 3 mm to the overlap of the folds in the middle of the tie.

On the lower corner of the tie, draw parallel lines of seams along the edges with an interval of 5 mm 2. At the bottom corner, draw the transverse line of the seam through the point of intersection of the internal lines of the seams so that the distance between the ends of the transverse line and the bottom corner is the same.

Similarly, make a pattern for the top edge of the tie, also draw lines of seams, but the pattern should be narrower than the pattern for the bottom.

Be careful: the template must be laid exactly at an angle of 45 degrees relative to the straight thread. Its acute angle should lie either at the intersection of the lobar and transverse threads, or on both sides at the same degree relative to the lobar and transverse threads.

Now draw a roller knife along the outline of the template and along the marked line, or cut the part with sharp scissors. True, it is still more convenient to cut out on a special litter with a roller cutter, but be sure to use a new, sharpened blade for cutting.

If you have a piece of silk 90 x 90 cm in size - as in our version, do not give up the opportunity to simultaneously sew a second, narrower, less formal tie. Cut and sew it exactly according to the same technology that is described for a classic tie.

Step 4: transfer stitch seam lines

Now, on the underside of the silk, draw the seam lines for the lower edge hemming, which are the lines that you drew on the template (including the transverse line). Next, repeat the same operation with the upper end of the tie.

Step 5: Uncover More Details

In addition to the main part of the tie, you will need to cut out also 2 details of the stitches: one for the lower edge, the second for the upper. They represent the lower (upper) corner and part of the tie with a minimum height of 30 cm. For laying, additionally cut 1 or 2 details from woolen fabric. If the wool is thin, it is better to cut 2 pieces, sweep them over the entire surface with long stitches (do not use adhesive pads!) And then process them as a single-layer part. For cheaper options, you can use non-woven. It is better to cut out the gasket part after grinding the top and bottom edges of the tie, sizes - see step 8.

From silk, you also need to cut a strip for fastening = tie width minus 2-3 cm and 6-8 cm wide - in finished form, 2.5 - 3.5 cm wide.

Iron out all cut-out parts by setting the appropriate heating temperature. Do not iron directly on the silk so that it does not become silted; iron the silk only through the iron.

Caution: Do not overcast necktie cuts!

Lay the hem on the lower part of the tie facing the front side, precisely combining the beveled edges and the lower corner, pin it with pins, or rather, sweep it. Check that the fabric of both parts is flat.

Sew first from the top edge of the hem to the first corner. Then sew along the second side from the top edge of the hem to the first corner.
Now sew along the marked line of the outer seam to the lowest corner, raise the presser foot of the machine, rotate, lower the foot and sew to the other corner. Similarly, make a second, parallel seam to the lowest corner down and then up. Finally, sew across to form a sharp corner on the finished tie.

Tip: To perform this operation very accurately, use a piece of paper that is cut exactly in the shape of an equilateral triangle.

Experienced craftsmen sew a corner of a tie “by eye”, but for beginners who like sewing without patterns and markings, it will be difficult to perfectly complete this important operation. At the end, cut the corner along the transverse stitch at a distance of 5 mm. Cut the remaining allowances close to the outside line of the stitch.

Next, similarly grind the upper end of the tie.

Step 10: Sew a Bartack

Fold the strip to fasten in half with the wrong side inward and grind a long slice. Turn and iron the strip so that the seam is below. Fold the tack in half and insert open slices into the folds of the tie, as shown in the photo. Fastening will allow the tie longer and better maintain its shape.

Gently sew the fastener under the crease manually, then straighten it in the form of a transverse strip (see photo), lay it flat on the inside of the tie and sew it on the tie manually on both sides with hidden stitches. Do not pierce the needle on the front side!

Step 12: finish the seam in the middle inside the tie

Do not tighten the thread too much so that the seam remains elastic and does not pull the front side of the tie. Sew slowly and gently from the bottom edge up, gradually removing the pins. Make sure the seam is even. Finish the seam on the top side of the tie, which should look the same as the bottom.

Step 14: iron and try on

Iron the tie again through the iron. Now your handmade tie is ready! It remains only to try it on a new shirt.

Photo: BurdaStyle, PR.

Material prepared by Elena Karpova